Stéphane Schaffter

Stéphane Schaffter, born in 1953 and died in 2015, is a renowned Swiss high mountain mountaineer and guide, also director and producer of films.

He began climbing and mountaineering at the age of 16, notably through the climbing of the Bonatti pillar in the Drus, marking the start of a life turned towards the mountain, adventure and verticality. His journey led him from the walls of the Jura to the highest peaks in the world, notably the Himalayas, which he discovered in 1982. He participated in many expeditions to the Alps, the Andes and in Himalayas, with major exploits such as the first ascent of the western pillar of the tower without name at the Baltoro in Pakistan, or even the first man to reach 8,000 meters Shishapangma. He also climbed Everest, the K2 and produced striking ascents punctuated by various sporting and technical challenges.

Stéphane Schaffter also marked the spirits by his work as a director, in particular of documentaries around his expeditions, such as "Everest 1952-2002: the completed dream", a film which relates a modern expedition commemorating that of 1952 with the descendants of the mountain pioneers Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay. His cinematographic work is recognized for its quality and authenticity, capturing the passion and the rigor of the mountain.

In addition, he maintained a close relationship with the brothers Eric and Patrick Escoffier, adventure companions and close friends, with whom he shared several expeditions, notably towards high summits and in extreme conditions. These human ties were an integral part of his philosophy, because he saw in the camaraderie and the mutual aid of values reinforcing the alpine experience.

His latest book, "vertical passion, from the Jura to the Himalayas", published in 2012, traces her career, his exploits, and his deep passion for the mountain, while testifying to his whole, generous and demanding character. He died accidentally on July 24, 2015 during an expedition to Zanskar in India. His life and work continue to inspire mountaineers, travelers and mountain lovers through his stories, films and his spirit of adventure.